February Dirt Wine Club Heads to Burgundy!


The Cote d’Or is a narrow 30 mile strip of land that runs atop an ancient limestone deposit. The northern part of the Côte d’Or , is home to the world’s most profound red wines. The world’s most profound red wines, the great pinot noir bottlings of the Côte de Nuits, coveted for their profound elegance, complexity, and the nuance they are capable of expressing from vineyard to vineyard. The Côte de Beaune, the southern half of Burgundy, produces both red and white wines, but it is the chardonnay that get all the glory. It deserves every bit that is heaped upon it. The wines at their best exhibit lightning bolt intensity and power with layer upon layer of mineral and earth aromatics to peel away, they can be truly mesmerizing.

As many longtime customers know, Burgundy is my obsession within an obsession. I return there every chance I get, both as a wine buyer and as a drinker. The wines don’t come cheap. I can count on one hand the number of opportunities I’ve had to include them in this club. Without a doubt the two wines included in this month’s Dirtselection are the two I’ve been most excited about in quite a while, and that’s saying something. I love sourcing the wines for this club. I rarely make these suggestions here, but I have a bit of advice for members. Drink these wines soon, and come back to the shop for few more bottles or a case once you’ve tasted them. We have 5 extra cases of each wine set aside just for club members. The wines are incredible, and the prices are unusually low.

2012, Marsannay ‘Les Boivins’, Domaine Colotte
In Burgundy, as in much of the world, hillside vineyards tend to produce the best fruit. The middle band of vineyards with a south/southeast aspect are the best of all. They higher up that central band one goes, the more limestone one finds in the soil. The limestone contributes to the acidity and phenolic ripeness of the grapes. Les Bovines is one of those sites sitting high up on that beautiful band of limestone soil. The nose kicks off with aromas of pete moss and forest floor followed by ripe red cherry, plum, candied date and baking spice. The aromatics carry through to the palette and are underpinned by a bolt of acidity. The wine is fresh and delicious and is just north of medium-bodied.

2013, Bourgogne Blanc ‘Charmes des Perrieres’, Dupont-Fahn
Dollar-for-dollar this is an extraordinary bottle of white Burgundy. The chardonnay here is from two of the most renowned Meursault vineyards but has been declassified to the humble Bourgogne level, the most basic of appellations in Burgundy. This is no basic wine. It drinks like a world-class Meursault. With aromatics of limestone, chamomile, button mushrooms, ripe pear, baked apple, clove, campfire… there is almost no end to its complexity. The wine is focused and the aromas and flavors precisely delineated, reminiscent of wines from the famed Meursault vineyard, Les Perrieres.