DECEMEBER SAUVAGE - FIEF NOIR GROLLEAU COCAGNE
Fief Noir Grolleau Cocagne - $25.99
Few things are more exciting than discovering a brand new producer that just gets it. Indeed, many of our core, trusted growers came into the Dedalus fold many, many vintages ago, and have been hallmarks of our selection since. As such, it’s especially thrilling to find a new producer doing everything right. That is precisely what we recently found in the Anjou with Fief Noir. This Loire Valley haven for Chenin and Grolleau is making some of the best–not to mention reasonably priced!–wines in all of the Loire, and we’re ecstatic to present them first to our Club Sauvage members. We begin with Fief Noir’s lovely Grolleau–a variety that is having its moment after decades of derision.
Fief Noir’s Grolleau ‘Cocagne’ is the best Loire Grolleau we’ve tasted since we discovered Catherine & Pierre Breton’s tremendous version. Sourced from thirty year-old Grolleau vines planted to sandy soils on schist, farming here is all organic, and the winemaking is both minimalist and natural. Maceration is light and delicate, so as not to over extract, and aging is done in concrete for six months, so as to promote oxygenation without adding flavor. The result is a bright and spicy red that is true to its varietal character–light in color, full of zesty flavor, with silky tannins and considerable minerality. We’ve always loved to recommend Grolleau to our Beaujolais customers for something similar but a little off the deep end. No matter what time of year it is, Grolleau is always best served cool, whether it’s from the depths of your cellar, or simply stuck in the fridge for a half an hour. Serve it simply with cheese & charcuterie.