FEBRUARY DIRT-CA' DI MAT GARNACHA VALAUTIN 2017
Now the folks at Ca’ di Mat, on the other hand, are relative newcomers to the Sierra de Gredos wine scene. That said, they are as passionately committed to the principles of farming and winemaking that have made Comando G so beloved. Also a project of two like-minded winemakers, in this case Curro Bareño and Jesus Olivares–here the tenets of organic viticulture are followed strictly, and everything is done to ensure maximum expression of their granitic terroir. Curro and Jesus also consider their ‘Valautin’ Garnacha to be their village bottling, as they source fruit from several tiny vineyards across the village of Valdeiglesias, the average of which are situated at over 800 meters of elevation.
Winemaking here is painstakingly precise, with the ultimate emphasis being on elegance and purity rather than breadth and power. They are impressively committed to producing ethereal, light colored expressions of Garnacha, and as a result approach the maceration process as more of an infusion, bringing into the mix some use of whole bunches. The resulting wine is indeed pale in the glass, somewhere between rosé and copper, yet with a downright glorious perfume, significant persistence on the palate, and a seriously long finish. A lighter-bodied Garnacha if there ever was one, this bottle will also be best served lightly cool.