This Week At The food Counter
EUROPEAN SOFT CHEESE ARRIVALS
Saturday’s air shipment delivered lots of fresh faces to the Dedalus cheese case, just in time for the spring thaw. Decadent, perfectly ripe soft cheeses have landed from France’s Loire, Burgundy, and Corsica.
From lean, mineral, and bright (like the ash-ripened goat, Selles sur Cher $8/16) to funky, unctuous, and rich (like the notorious Époisses de Bourgogne $12/24), we’ve got you covered with French classics. Check out some of my favorites, like the beefy Chablis-washed Affidélice, on our Wine Bar cheese board this week, with Bouvier’s 2015 Bourgogne en Montre Cul available by the glass. On the Italian side, we have Truffled Robiola $32/lb from Alba, three milk Nerina Mista $32, and just a few pieces left of the cabbage-wrapped Robiola di Capra Incavolata $36. I’ll be taking home a wheel of the quintessential Robiola Quadrotta $26/lb, a cow and sheep’s milk pillow that pairs splendidly with Davide’s creamy 2016 Garganega “Primo Incontro” bubbles.
Looking for something more exotic? We just picked up our first batch of Sola di Capra $33, the Piedmontese inspiration for Twig Farm’s Square cheese. This rustic goat’s milk cheese gets its name from the local Italian dialect suola delle scarpe, meaning “sole of shoe”. This flattering descriptor speaks to the mottled natural rind of Sola, whose yellow speckled (crysosporium sulfureum) exterior reveals a supple ivory inside with bright acidity. This is my pick for orange wines like the juicy, saline Denavolo 2016 “Catavela” from Emilia-Romagna.
WINE TASTING TAKEOVER THURSDAY, MARCH 29TH
Speaking of my favorite bottles, I’ll be taking over this Thursday’s wine tasting and pouring my latest obsessions from our Retail Shop. From Catalonia to Corsica, these Mediterranean wines are bursting with energy and craving salty, fatty delicacies from our food counter. These sun-soaked climates are heavily influenced by their rugged, coastal terroirs, matching easily with the traditional regional cuisine I hold so dear.
Here’s a preview of the lineup:
Clos Cibonne 2016 Côtes de Provence “Cuvée Traditional” Tibouren Rosé $26.99
One of only 18 Crû Classés in Provence, this refreshing 90% Tibouren/10% Grenache is aged in open-top barrels less than 1000m from the Mediterranean. With a year of bottle age, this indigenous Provençale rosé shows off what happens when the frenetic acidity ages out and flavors rhubarb and cantaloupe emerge.
Edi Kante 2014 Venezia Giulia Chardonnay $35.99
With a thin layer of clay on top of solid grey limestone, Kante’s vines struggle mightily along the Adriatic coast. His careful viticulture is rewarded with remarkable concentration. Think Friuli-meets-Burgundy, this laser beam white shows creamy richness from long lees contact with Friuli’s trademark minerality.
Lectores Vini 2016 Conca de Barberá “Pomagrana” Trepat (from the Porrón) $19.99
This chillable, light bodied red from Catalonia is begging to be poured from the porrón–a traditional spanish wine pitcher that allows for efficient consumption. This is classic tapas wine, with fresh acidity and bright pomegranate (duh) fruit that craves rare steak, aged cheese, and tinned fish.
Marengo 2015 Patrimonio “Emiliu” Rouge 1.5L $54.99
There’s nothing quite like showing up to a party with a magnum, especially when its mouth-watering Corsican Grenache. Like wild strawberries and maquis (the herbaceous wild scrub that covers the island), this wine pairs with everything. I’ll be tasting these incredibly fresh wines alongside Corsican cheese and sherry vinegar potato chips from Ibiza. Take these wines home before I drink them all myself!!
DEDALUS CHARCUTERIE CLUB
Our April Charcuterie Club pickup is fast approaching, and it’s not too late to signup for our $30 club. Each month, you’ll receive three meats from our Charcuterie Case: something raw, something cooked, and something cured. Every pickup features well over 1 lb of charcuterie, including selections from our House Made Charcuterie and our favorite artisan producers, and writeups and a recipe on the meats.
In addition to the product, club members receive a 10% discount on all food and wine in our Retail Shop.
Here’s a preview of April’s share:
2 x Dedalus Fresh Chorizo - two pieces of freshly-made Chorizo from our kitchen. Local Vermont pork shoulder, Pimentón de la Vera, and garlic spice these natural-casing sausages. Great for paella and spring grilling.
1 pot Dedalus Chicken Liver Mousse - three animal proteins in one adorable jar! Chicken livers combine (1) with butter (2), shallots, sherry vinegar, and a splash of red wine reduction, for a savory, silky mousse topped with NY duck fat (3). All you need is a crusty baguette and a pot (or pail) of dijon.
2 x Underground Meats Goat Salami - Madison, Wisconsin meat-wizards have just released their newest goat salami, which features a touch of warming cinnamon and rosemary, and pork back fat for texture.
Join the charcuterie revolution and learn where your meat comes from. These decadent treats are sourced with a conscious and directly from small producers whenever possible.
ORIGIN STORIES: A TASTING WITH ALLISON HOOPER FROM VERMONT CREAMERY
How lucky is it to be a cheesemonger in Vermont and have access to some of best cheeses and brightest minds in our industry?
It’s hard to use the words Vermont and cheese in the same sentence and not think of Allison Hooper, the visionary cheesemaker and cofounder of Vermont Creamery.
From cultured butter to ash-ripened goat cheese, Allison has been at the core of Vermont’s modern dairy renaissance. Inspired by her time living with a farmstead cheesemaker in Brittany, Allison has worked with partner Bob Reese to adapt classic French dairy products to American terroir. From Vermont Butter & Cheese, to Vermont Creamery, to Land O’ Lakes, their 30+ year journey has been nothing short of remarkable.
From the tiny seed of an idea in a creamery in Brookfield, Vermont to the international success Vermont Creamery is today, social responsibility and agricultural sustainability have been at the core of the company’s mission. We are so fortunate to have Allison in our community and as a customer in our shop.
Join Allison and myself in a guided tasting through her origin story: the experiences and cheeses that have made her career. We’ll put together a selection of our most beloved Vermont Creamery products and pair them with Allison’s favorite wines from our Retail Store.
Artisan Food Manager