Famille Dutraive Saint Amour Clos du Chapitre 2020

Jean-Louis does everything right. In his words, he practices “low intervention, high surveillance” winemaking. Everything is organic, with only tiny amounts of sulfur added at bottling in certain vintages — only when necessary. This is the winemaker that other Beaujolais winemakers look to as a yardstick, the one who sets the bar for great Gamay and yet somehow never receives quite the same type of standing ovation as his peers.

This single vineyard wine comes from the under-valued cru of Saint-Amour. It’s full of ripe red fruits and spice, with notes of cherry, cinnamon, clove, and an edgy minerality. It’s serious, and fun, and should be drunk with a chill. You could hold onto it if you wanted to, but this is so good that we recommend opening it right now.