Mateo Furlani is the Yoda of the Italian pet-nat scene. His latest is made using the rare ‘Joannita’ grape, a cross between Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chasselas, and cold-hardy Seyve-Villard. Wild, delicious, and unabashedly unique. It tastes like grapefruit soda steeped in chamomile tea and preserved lemons.