Hubert Lignier sources this fruit from two vineyards that sit just below the great Grand Cru Clos de la Roche. The Pinot Noir vines, planted in 1945 and 1960, are truly old. Their fruit is concentrated. Always giving and full, the Vieilles Vignes is a powerful, broad wine. Blackberry, ripe cherry, candied orange peel, pine and a bit of campfire - but off in the distance - float out of the glass. The rich palette is balanced by bright acidity and super fine tannins. This is an exceptional bottle of Morey St. Denis. It will drink beautifully for years.
Hubert Lignier’s wines are essential. They are unapologetically old-school bottlings. Wines of elegance and finesse, full of nervous energy with a mineral, earthy substratum that defies the current movement towards fruit-forward Pinot Noir and Aligote. They are great wines of character - and truly great wines of Burgundy. As I tasted through the 2014 vintage of their wines, I felt relief that this great domaine has found its stride once again after having been struck by great tragedy that tore their family apart.